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Beer Reviews
Sapient Trip Ale
Dark Horse Brewing Co.Marshall, MI
USA
http://www.darkhorsebrewery.com
Style: Abbey Tripel
ABV: 8.5%
Eddie’s Rating:





Comments:
Pair With:
Did I say I was a hangin judge when it comes to Belgian-style brews?In Eddies eyes, if youre going to brew a Belgianespecially the supreme achievement, the tripelyou better get it right. But brewing a Belgian golden ale is deceivingly difficult to get right: it must be golden and delicate, but blindingly strong in alcohol. And woe to the brewer if even a hint of that alcohol touches the taste buds. There is no real hop profile to hide behind, just enough to cut through some of that sweetness. Too hoppy, youre damned. Too sweetditto. A soft but firm body is required, too, yet definitely not too much body. And, ah, yes, those spicy notes, which come from the strains of ale yeast peculiar to the style. They lend a beautiful, extremely delicate dryness to the palate, and all it takes to ruin it is letting the yeast get a little too excitedand warmduring the fermentation process.
But whats the payout for such grueling work? Money? Fame? Piss on that. Were talking beer, some of the best beer in the whole damn world: Duvel (again, its pronounced DOO-vl), Tripel Karmeliet, Westmalle Tripelbeers virtually without peers. Successfully brewing a great Belgian ale is literally its own reward.
Sapient Trip Ale is Dark Horses take on the style. I really wanted this one to work. This is a relatively young but great brewery, and I was hoping that they would be the first Midwestern brewer to make me think I was in Belgium (and not Belgium, Wisconsin or Belgium, Illinois). But, alas, despite a valiant try
Sapient is a deep orange, too dark to call golden. Part of this is due to more than a moderate amount of bottle-conditioned haziness. The head is fairly subdued, with a fingers worth of sticky white foam. The nose is classic Belgian: sharp herbs and coriander-like spices, although not with the strength I was expecting. That spiciness carries through to the front of the sip, but oops: theres a shot of fusel alcohols along for the ride. When Im sipping a Belgian, I dont want one single hint that Im on my way to getting hammered on a sometimes 10 percent (or higher!) ABV brew. But Sapients alcohol peaks through right away, even before it warms. The next sensation is thick malt with far too much body. With a restrained hop profile that would be normal for the style, the beers moderate spiciness and lack of refreshing acidity cant balance things out. If Sapient were a canoe, wed be in the water. Its just too heavy and sweet, and that combined with the alcohol being too far out front dooms this brew.
A good effort, but unfortunately I cant recommend it. Im sure youre thinking Im a snooty bastard for a guy who hasnt even been to Belgium, but this style demands a brewers absolute best.
The search continues
Reviewed by Eddie Glick on January 8, 2008.
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