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Dancing Man Wheat

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New Glarus Brewing Company
New Glarus, WI
USA
http://www.newglarusbrewing.com/

Style: Wheat
ABV: 7.2%

Eddie’s Rating:
one beerone beerone beerone beerone beer   (Outstanding within its style.)


Comments:
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Well … those brilliant sonsabitches at New Glarus have done it again.

When I first heard Dan Carey and company’s latest summer seasonal was a wheat, my initial reaction was a dichotomy of emotions. On the one hand, I thought, “Great, another American wheat to cram down our beer holes.” And on the other, I was drooling over the possibilities at what New Glarus would do with this dangerously over-done style. If you looked at my mug rating, I think you have an idea how it all played out.

At first, nothing unusual: it pours a semi-cloudy, dark gold, with a towering cream-colored head of pillowy foam. Although the thin residue of yeast coating the bottom of the bottle is proof that this beer is indeed bottle-conditioned, it isn’t nearly as cloudy as a lot of unfiltered wheats you’ll come across. The nose is borderline mind-blowing: ultra-intense Belgian-like spiciness over top a bed of traditional Bavarian-wheat bananas and cloves. Wow.

It’d be a tall order for the taste to live up to the aroma—and it doesn’t—but it’s still pretty damn fantastic. The spiciness is toned down from the nose and, although still awful lively for a wheat, it’s complemented almost perfectly with a mix of bananas and yeast. There isn’t a huge banana/clove presence like you’d find in traditional Bavarian wheats, but there’s enough to balance out that spice. Some lemony, citrus notes come out as the beer warms, furthering the complexity. All underneath a soft, clean palate that you’ve come to expect from a well-made wheat.

Damn, this is one fine beer. At 7.2 percent ABV this is not a noodle-armed “lawn mower” beer, but it is harder than Hell to stop at only one.

Reviewed by Eddie Glick on December 18, 2007.
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