BeerDorks.com: Reviews, Commentary and Opinions on Midwest Craft Beer and Microbreweries

 
December 2, 2006

Beer Diary:

Know Thy Beer

Thinking of ordering up a pint of that new craft brew your local pub just got in? Know before you buy—you may just be getting a repackaged macro.
by Eddie Glick

I like my beer like my women: pale, strong, full-bodied, and extremely bitter.
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So I was in a bar (shocker!) recently with a few acquaintances (yes, Eddie Glick has a couple floating around here and there), and the only even remotely drinkable beer that this sub-average joint offered was a Blue Moon. The aforementioned acquaintances were happily drinking the macro swill the place offered and, so as not to appear rude, I ordered a Blue Moon.

Now, me being a Beer Dork, I knew before I ordered that Blue Moon is brewed and distributed by Coors, or, to be more accurate, Molson Coors Brewing Co., which Coors became after merging with Canada’s largest brewer. The problem is the vast majority of beer drinkers don’t know that. They see “Belgian White” on the bottle or tap and think it’s either from Belgium or it’s a craft brew. A few of your dimmer bar patrons may see it served with an orange slice jammed onto the lip of the pint glass and think, “Ooh! An orange slice! How … exotic!” and decide to order one simply because of that.

(Eddie’s policy on fruit in your beer: if the brewer wants fruit in the beer, the brewer should brew that beer with fruit. So, hold the lemon wedge, please.)

Coors has been pulling this little stunt for about ten years. They do everything they can think of to pretend that Blue Moon has nothing to do with giant, faceless brewing. They shun big-budget advertising, let distributors who specialize in selling craft brews and small brands talk it up to retailers, and specifically aim at markets that will accept it while not asking too many questions (i.e., people who like to think of themselves as “trendy” and try to perpetuate this by hanging out in “trendy” bars and clubs).

And this strategy has worked quite well for Coors. Estimates for sales of Blue Moon in the month of November 2006 are up to 500,000 barrels—far, far more than all but the very largest craft breweries in the country.

I shouldn’t sound so combative about this, though, since Blue Moon is, to me, a perfectly drinkable beer, especially during those dusty Midwest summers. I would much rather drink something with a little more verve and vigor, but it’ll do in a pinch when no other viable choices are available. I think we’ve all been stuck in that situation where we let our acquaintances make the beer-drinking decisions for us, with sometimes disastrous results. Talk about hating yourself the next morning …

All this would be fine and good, but as the craft brewing industry begins to gain ground on the macro brewers, the other big boys look at Coors’ successful strategy and start to hatch nefarious plans of their own—such as forming little satellite companies like Crooked Creek Brewing Co. and Green Valley Brewing Co. and attaching beers like Stone Mill Pale Ale and Wild Hop Lager to them, respectively. Surprise! Both are owned and operated by Anheuser-Busch. Or they’ll invest heavily in an existing craft brewer, like Portland, Oregon’s Widmer or Seattle’s Redhook, both of which are partially owned by Anheuser-Busch. To even further distance their name from a craft brewer’s image, Anheuser-Busch invested in Goose Island by proxy: Widmer put up the money to grab a 40 percent stake in the Chicago-based brewery. SAB Miller is a bit more blunt in their methods. They just buy craft brewing companies outright, like Leinenkugel’s or Portland’s Henry Weinhard’s.

I’ve already gone off on my rant about how big brewing can damage the rebirth of America’s beer heritage and the importance of drinking local, so I won’t repeat it here. What I will say is these companies are tricking us into buying their product. Even if they were putting out quality beers—and I have not had a chance to try either Stone Mill Pale Ale or Wild Hop Lager—the fact that they refuse to attach their names to it tells you flat out that they don’t really care about the quality and taste of the beer. Here’s a hint what they do care about: it looks like an S with a vertical bar driven through it. They see this craft beer thing as a flash in the pan, like the horrid “malternatives” from a couple years back and wine coolers before that. Once the fad fades, they say to themselves, we’ll ditch those “craft” brews and return our focus to the stuff that resembles water more than beer. Ka-ching.

Are craft brewers interested in money? Yes, they are. But the way they make their money isn’t through advertising an image for those who drink their beer or tricking customers into buying their product. They make their money by offering quality beer. If their product is crap, their company will very likely go down the toilet. Because Beer Dorks care about quality first and everything else a distant second. So if those big breweries want to make a good beer, MAKE A GOOD BEER! Go ahead, slap your own name on it, say “Proudly brewed by Miller Brewing Co., Milwaukee, Wisconsin.” If it’s good—and no local brew of equal quality or better is readily available—I’ll drink it.

And, for the record, good old Anheuser-Busch gave this tactic a shot by selling their Beach Bum Blonde Ale. I tried it with an open mind. Seriously, Eddie Glick can do that once in a while. And guess what? It tasted like semi-fermented toilet water. These companies are so driven by marketing and brand recognition that they can’t bring themselves to produce anything other than homogeneous swill and still put their names on it. It would make the masses—gleep!—think! Katy bar the door.

Therefore, before ordering up that intriguing but heretofore unknown brew, know thy beer. Stay informed by sticking with the Beer Dorks and reading our reviews and articles. Or poke around at Rate Beer or Beer Advocate. Find out where your beer is coming from before you put it in your body. Because an informed customer is a happy customer. And getting tricked into drinking ditch water from St. Louis can really ruin one’s day.





Comments
Great article, couldn't agree more with your commentary. I actually know a guy who used to order Leinenkugel's Honey Weiss with OLIVES!! What a douche! Keep fighting the good fight Eddie.
posted by Nigel | December 3, 2006, 12:08 AM
Thanks for the praise, Nigel. And I knew a guy who willingly drank Heineken. What a strange world we live in …
posted by Eddie Glick | December 3, 2006, 1:00 AM
I'm with you on this 95%, Eddie. I've been duped by said Blue Moon AND Green Valley Brewing Co (who I think brews the Stone Mill and not the Wild Hop Lager).

BM's White is OK like you said but their Pumpkin Ale left me rather underwhelmed.

With Stone Mill, I checked their website (where I saw A-B and felt that sense of betrayal). While it's OWNED by a mega-brewery, the site talks about supporting small organic farmers in NH (where I think it's brewed, too). For me, this is as compelling a reason to buy as finding local products to support my personal beer heritage. Plus, it's a respectable pale ale in it's own right.
posted by Dave | December 21, 2006, 11:53 AM

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